Calistoga Reimagined

Discover the charm of this Napa Valley gem, from its historic hot springs and revitalized train depot to its welcoming small-town vibe

By Katie McElveen

In Calistoga, California, Everything Old is New Again

In early 1848, Sacramento, California shop owner and newspaper publisher Sam Brannan heard a rumor that gold had been discovered in the nearby town of Coloma. But instead of rushing to the site with a pickaxe, Brannan did something even more ingenious: after confirming the story, he procured every piece of mining equipment available for sale in the region and added it to his shop’s inventory. Next, he set out for San Francisco and, displaying a shiny vial of gold, initiated the first frenzy of what would become the California Gold Rush. Within a few weeks, he had made $36,000—a fortune in the mid-19th century—selling the spades, shovels, picks, and baskets he had amassed. By June, his newspaper, The California Star, reported that towns were emptying as workers and their families flocked to the mining sites; four days later, the paper ceased publication due to a lack of staff.

By 1850, Sam Brannan was not only the richest man in California but the state’s first millionaire. In 1859, he made his way to what is now Calistoga, where he became so enamored by the region’s volcanic hot springs that he decided not only to build a resort but also to facilitate travel to and from San Francisco by founding the Napa Valley Railroad Company.

Although Brannan was soon forced to sell his shares in the hotel and railroad company—he eventually died penniless—the city he created continued to thrive. Today, shops, restaurants, and small hotels line the downtown streets; a few blocks away, luxury resorts with manicured gardens and private hot springs offer views of vineyards and, in the distance, the Mayacamas Mountains.

On a recent trip to Calistoga, I cycled through the residential neighborhood surrounding the seven or so blocks of Lincoln Avenue that form the city’s compact downtown. Along the way, I passed not only the expected tasting rooms and tourist boutiques but also bookstores, sweet-smelling bakeries, a drugstore, a grocery store, and, at the end of the road, a former gas station turned winery called the Tank Garage. It was unpretentious and welcoming—the kind of place where I never had to lock my bike.

But what really sets the town apart are the hot springs bubbling beneath the surface, creating mineral-rich mud and water that detoxify, soften skin, and even help ease achy joints. Access abounds: Indian Springs Calistoga Resort’s pools are fed by on-site geysers, and the mud used in the resort’s signature mud baths is also harvested on the property. At Dr. Wilkinson’s Spa & Baths, tubs are filled with a proprietary mixture of steamy composted botanicals, peat moss, mineral water, volcanic ash, and other organics. It’s the same recipe that wellness pioneers John and Edy Wilkinson developed in 1952 when they opened the spa and began offering therapeutic mud baths to tourists. Solage Calistoga’s Mudslide treatment trades the tub for a bucket of mud, which is slathered on, left to dry, then rinsed off in a private garden shower.

The newest and coolest addition to Calistoga’s downtown is also steeped in history. In 2023, the train depot that was part of Sam Brannan’s long-defunct Napa Valley Railroad Company reopened as the Calistoga Depot, a shopping and dining space that utilizes not just the historic structure but also the platform and several train cars.

The complex is the brainchild of Jean-Charles Boisset, who fell in love with California when he first visited the state as an 11-year-old on a family trip. In 2003, he began acquiring wineries in Napa and Sonoma; in 2021, he purchased the depot.

The main building is entered through a retail shop that’s also home to a vegan deli; just beyond is the Calistoga Depot Distillery, where you can sit at a bar constructed from old shovelheads and sip spirits with names that harken back to Sam Brannan’s life—Calistoga Star brandy, First Millionaire whiskey, and Fame & Misfortune rye. Just past an outdoor beer garden, four railroad cars have been transformed into separate restaurants where décor and cuisine come together to create a multi-sensory experience. The Parlor Car, for instance, serves caviar, Champagne, and icy martinis under an iridescent ceiling, while Casa Obsidiana’s Oaxacan dishes are as authentic as the artifacts and artwork that decorate the train car.

Calistoga might be the northernmost city in Napa, but I found it to be a convenient jumping-off point for exploring the region. The town of St. Helena and wineries like Raymond, Frank Family, Duckhorn, and Rombauer are all within easy striking distance. Even better, at the end of the day, heading north, I traveled against the traffic battling south toward Napa and San Francisco. But you might even find yourself charmed, as I was, by Calistoga’s low-key vibe.

Where to Stay

Sprawling through gardens planted with olive trees, fragrant cedars, and wild orchids, Auberge Solage Calistoga feels like a private estate. Rooms open onto private outdoor spaces set with arbors and fireplaces; the spa includes a number of hydrotherapy pools. Town is just a five-minute bike trip away.

Resembling a vintage motor lodge, the just-renovated Dr. Wilkinson’s Backyard Resort & Mineral Springs is filled with trendy extras like tree swings in the grassy backyard, retro Galanz refrigerators, and mushroom-infused medicinal teas as part of the in-room coffee service.