A New Take on Old World Traditions

Legami offers innovative Italian dishes inspired by the Lowcountry

By Wendy Swat Snyder, Photos by ALEECE SOPHIA

The culture and cuisine of Italy are alive at 492 King Street, attracting crowds with the style and authenticity that only natives of a country can bring. Ensconced in a 19th century property with the vibe of Old World Italian architecture, Legami is a labor of love of two families: the Ropolos from the Italian Piedmont town of Torino, Italy, and the Miglioris, with ties to immigrants from Frosinone. Legami executive chef Andrea Conguista hails from Rome. With a shared heritage and deep connection to food, partnering for the families was a natural fit, and Charleston was the right place for them to partner.

Legami is the latest invention of Washington Street Hospitality, which operates a string of New England-based eateries. Founders Gianni and Susie Ropolo split their time between homes in Italy and Newport, Rhode Island with sons Eldredge and Tyler Ropolo; imbuing in them, over the years, is their love of connecting through food. The word legami means ties and connections between people and places; that, says the owners, is what brought this project to fruition.

“The biggest connection to Charleston was my cousin Don Migliori and his wife Joanne,” says chief operating officer Eldredge. “They were a big factor in our coming here. Don told us for years we ought to open a restaurant in Charleston. We came just for a visit during the pandemic. We fell in love.”

“Finding the building was the turning point,” says creative director Tyler. “Everyone's vision came together when we connected the restaurant to this building and saw its potential. Its European flavor fit with our style and restaurant concepts.”

“Also, Andrea (chef Congiusta) has brought some of that meaning of connections by tying Italian cuisine and a little bit of French cuisine to Charleston and its local product to create his menu,” adds Tyler.

The Ropolos and Miglioris acquired the building in 2021, during the pandemic. The three-year renovation started as a Pasta Beach project, the group's popular New England-based brand.

“As we got into it, we realized we actually wanted to do something different,” explains Eldredge, who oversees daily operations. “We redesigned the entire space, using the building itself as inspiration, maintaining as many of the original elements as possible—we didn't change the exterior at all. The walls in the second floor lounge are also original.”

The transformation of the restaurant unfolded with Tyler leading the team—the goal, as with all their properties, is to bring a timeless aesthetic to the dining experience to create long-lived restaurants that become part of the community.

The first floor is a light-flooded, airy open space, defined by pale hardwood flooring and a palette of whites punctuated by pops of warm reds and pinks inspired by the tones found in the building's facade. Hand-painted palms add warmth to Venetian plastered walls, created by New York-based Italian artisan Flavio Bragaloni.

The second floor boasts a variety of dining experiences: A mezzanine with an elegant special occasion banquette that seats eight under a graceful light fixture made in Torino; bistro style seating in the warmly backlit bar and a dining area designed to mimic an awning-covered outdoor veranda.

“We also designed and had made by hand in Italy antique wall sconces you find in Italian villas,” notes Tyler.

The festive veranda is where my guest and I dined the evening we visited Legami, excited to sample Conguista's menu amid views of the King Street skyline. The executive chef began his training early, at a high school for the culinary arts. He later studied at Accademia Niko Romito—whose Ristorante Reale has garnered three Michelin stars.

“It was the most important part of my training,” says Conguista. “The school was out in the middle of nowhere, surrounded by farms and dairies. It was great to see how the ingredients we work with—these tools—are made by artisans.”

Conguista's portfolio includes Michelin-starred Il Pagliaccio in Rome. His approach—to celebrate Italian ingredients with an innovative twist—meshed well with the sensibilities of the Washington Street Hospitality group, which he joined in Newport in 2022.

“There's the farm connection, reflected in the menu,” said Conguista. “I draw inspiration from the building. In the menu you'll see respect for Charleston and influences from England and French touches in the beef Wellington.”

We started with Georges Banks Scallops, a small plate offering inspired by Lowcountry shrimp and grits that riffed on the traditional corn grits with a roasted corn sauce. Sundried tomatoes, almond pesto and truffle butter finished the fantastic dish.

Next out: Baby potatoes, oven-cooked in a confit of butter and rosemary, were the perfect small bite, and taken to the next level with an unctuous bearnaise sauce and red wine reduction.

The beef tartare was the tastiest and best presentation I've had. Tenderloin from Atlanta-based Halpern's was spiced with capers, pickles, marinated onions, and a touch of honey. Chef's play on the dish included a cured egg yolk butter on toast instead of the traditional presentation of raw egg.

An outstanding salad of kale and beet roots from Limehouse Produce was layered with goat cheese, an almond crema and a pleasantly acidic mustard vinaigrette that balanced the richness of the next two dishes. King Tide Farms provides the kitchen's microgreens. Fish is sourced locally from CudaCo.

The lobster dish I ordered arrived perched atop a rich, al dente risotto sauced with butternut squash cream and finished with Parmigiano Reggiano. Also from Halpern's, the lobster tail is slow cooked at a low temperature—poche—to maintain its tenderness.

Chef says filet mignon alla Wellington is one of his favorite dishes, and it was ours, too. With it, he pays homage to the city's English heritage and it's destined to be a menu standard.

A special technique removes excess moisture from the beef, ensuring that the puff pastry remains light and crisp. Dijon mustard and prosciutto di parma add edge to the dish, and a classic mushroom duxelles a rich finish.

Legami's respect for long-held ties between people and connecting through food plays out in a fascinating way throughout the restaurant and in a building that provides both a sense of place and inspiration. ϒ

Legami

492 King St., Charleston

legamichs.com

Wed-Fri 5-11p.m., Sat-Sun 4-11p.m.