Surf 's Up

As the balmy days of summer settle in like a warm hug, quality beach time is on most everyone's mind. And there's nothing better after a day of sun and sand than a pit stop at a beachside eatery — especially one with a laid-back Caribbean vibe and cuisine to match. The Longboard on Sullivan's Island has it all — an upscale, seafood-centric menu with a south-of-the-border spin in a trendy tropical setting sporting both indoor and outdoor dining. A property of Ballast Hospitality, a Charleston-based group born in the United States Virgin Islands, one needs only to kick back with a Frozen Painkiller — a heady shot of dark rum laced with pineapple, coconut cream, orange juice and nutmeg — to be in a happy place.

At the helm of Ballast is managing partner Clint Gaskins, a South Carolina native whose history with hospitality began in his hometown of Isle of Palms working after school at small local eateries. After graduating from the College of Charleston, he migrated from the server, bartender side to restaurant management. The he went on to stints at downtown Charleston boutique hotels, learning hotel and restaurant operations and guest services. He went on to open and operate Squeeze Bar on East Bay Street before a fire shuttered the popular spot.

Gaskins points to his Caribbean connection as the inspiration for his restaurant properties. “My brother lived in the USVI for a while, so I was coming down a lot — we were sailing, diving, boating,” he explained. “We were familiar with what was happening there — it was an undeveloped market, and we saw a niche, plus it was fairly easy for an American citizen to start a business there. It took us about a year to identify a property, and in 2015 we opened The Longboard St. John in Cruz Bay.”

The Longboard Sullivan's Island launched in 2021 as the stateside iteration of the original USVI Longboard concept. The group's portfolio also includes The Easterly on St. Thomas and a new Longboard property on St. Thomas. Gaskins points to the expertise of wife and partner Kristen Gaskins for being the entire operation's “project catchall.”

Culinary director Nate Kulchak oversees culinary operations for all Ballast properties. His contributions have played a significant role in defining the culinary identity — which includes a sushi selection that has become a hallmark of The Longboard experience. His passion for sushi grew from an early apprenticeship under a Japanese chef and led to several acclaimed sushi restaurants of his own, including one on St. John.

Longboard Sullivan's Island chef de cuisine Michael Magee collaborates with Kulchak in the execution of the restaurant's kitchen. The South Carolina native joined the staff shortly after its 2021 startup, connecting with Clint Gaskins while working at Wood & Grain in Mount Pleasant. A graduate of the Culinary Institute of Charleston, he was drawn to hospitality at a young age, cooking with his grandmother in Spartanburg. He also would take over management of a 60-acre family farm in Landrum while still in high school. “I fell in love with it,” he said. “Cooking with those local fresh ingredients was like putting my heart on a plate.”

Magee started at The Longboard shucking oysters and rose quickly to line cook, executive sous chef and then chef de cuisine — crediting his early years farming for the work ethic that drives him. “I have a lot of passion for this place. We're bringing the group's Caribbean flare to the Lowcountry,” he explained. “Caribbean food has a lot of Asian influences, South African, Mexican, Cuban — flavors and ingredients you can play with.”

The evening my guest and I visited The Longboard, its chill island vibe and warm hospitality worked magic. An extensive renovation headed by architect team Beau Clowney, and interior design team Cortney Bishop Design, created an open and airy space. Clean lines and rustic wicker light fixtures defined the entryway. Dining unfolded under lofty exposed beams in banquettes and community tables; the color palettes included whites and earth tones. Cooling granite covered the bar.

We started with a Caribbean chopped salad featuring lightly bitter radicchio, frisee and arugula, blended with sweet mango and cotija cheese, watermelon radish and chili pepper spiced pepita. A blood orange vinaigrette sweetened with agave balanced out the refreshing dish.

Sea Island Shrimp Company supplied the shellfish for our garlic butter shrimp floating in an outstanding butter sauce composed of spicy Sriracha, lemon and white wine, with a finish of fresh cilantro and crusty grilled focaccia from Saffron Bakery. The kitchen sources sourdough and other breads from Normandy Farms.

The delicious fish spread we shared featured hickory smoked mahi mixed with a blend of sour cream, butter, mayonnaise and poblano peppers topped with chives, watermelon radish, dill and a sprinkling of tajin —  a Mexican lime spice that adds an acidic bite.

Mussels bathed in a delicate saffron tomato broth were next. A rich soffritto of stewed down fennel, onions, celery and carrots enriched the broth, which we navigated with a chunk of savory sourdough.

Finally, a thick-cut bone-in Berkshire pork chop was served, sourced from Berkwood Farms, a sustainable ranch the chef says he feels a kinship with because he raised Berkshire pigs on his family's farm. The chop is brined for 24 hours in a mixture of salt, brown sugar and “a lot of aromatics,” grilled and finished with a maple apple glaze — an instant favorite. Our side of Brussels sprouts had a rich umami thanks to a miso glaze, and a touch of sweetness from benne seed, an heirloom product the chef credits Sean Brock for bringing back into regional foodways.

With its island vibe, Caribbean flavors, and over-the-top service, The Longboard is the perfect end — or beginning — to a day at the beach.

Longboard

2213-B Middle St, Sullivan's Island

(843) 868-8161

thelongboardsullivans.com