Mediterranean Melting Pot

04 Sep 2024

Taverna Philosophia Aegean Brasserie puts a unique spin on Greek cuisine

 

By Wendy Swat Snyder

Photos by  James Stefiuk

The duo who introduced the wildly popular Philosophia restaurant to the Charleston culinary scene are filling a wide open niche with a new ode to the foodways of the Aegean. Dubbed Taverna Philosophia Aegean Brasserie, this latest offering from Dimitri Hatgidimitriou and Justin Hunt explores Grecian cuisine from a unique point of view, with a menu that sets it apart from its nearby sister restaurant. With a scarcity of options for authentic Greek cuisine in Mount Pleasant and beyond, and no fine dining spots, the more the better from the team’s TYSM Hospitality.

“There was so much demand when we opened Philosophia, it was a very good start,” says Hatgidimitriou. “We felt there was a lot more Greek food that we could do, so when we decided to open Taverna. The plan was to be completely different—service-wise, hospitality, décor, and most importantly, the menu and wine list. Only two items are similar to Philosophia’s. It’s also our take on Greek food more Mediterranean style, and we’re presenting it in a brasserie format. Taverna has a lot of Mediterranean influence. Philosophia is just Greek.”

French, Italian and Spanish influences flavor the Taverna menu in dishes like foie gras, octopus casoulet, and croquettes.

    

“We tie these dishes into our concept by adding Greek elements,” notes Hatgidimitriou. “We serve the foie gras on top of a fried Greek tiiropita. We have the section we call The Grill—whole fish, dry-aged cuts of beef that you’d normally get in a steak house or brasserie. We also have a raw bar, seafood towers—you’ll never see that in Greece.”

A native of Greece, Hatgidimitriou met Hunt when his family relocated to the United States and settled in Long Island, New York. A strong childhood friendship developed. Both were drawn to hospitality—they grew up in food centric families—Hunt, the kitchen, and Hatgidimitriou, the service side.  After completing a degree in hotel restaurant management, Hatgidimitriou continued his education at The French Culinary Institute and the Wine and Spirits Education Trust in New York City. During that time, he oversaw food and beverage programs at establishments that included the Ritz Carlton Central Park, Atelier and BLT Market. He returned home to take over management of his father’s restaurant, Crabtree’s, where he was awarded six consecutive Star Diamond awards from the American Academy of Hospitality Sciences.

Hunt’s passion for the kitchen took him to South Carolina, where he completed studies in hospitality at the College of Charleston, and then to culinary school at the Art Institute of Charleston. He returned to New York, working his way up at Manhattan restaurants—eventually rising to executive chef at Bobby Flays’ Bar Americaine. After a stint at The French Laundry in California, he returned to Charleston to head the kitchen at the Mills House. When the food and beverage manager position opened, Hatgidimitriou joined him and plans for a restaurant of their own began to take shape. In January 2024, Taverna followed Philosophia’s 2022 debut, with a location barely a block away from its location at the foot of the Ravenel Bridge in Mt. Pleasant.

“It’s very important for one of us to be there to welcome a guest and say good night to a guest,” explains Hatgidimitriou. “And one of us is always on property to do that—so that’s why we have this nearby location.”

Family values and a lifetime of shared experiences that include annual trips to Greece influenced the concept the partners built Taverna upon. Those tenets were on full display when my guest and I visited the restaurant.

We were warmly greeted by beverage director  Mimi Willmeth, and our server, Anthony Clampitt, was congenial and extremely knowledgeable. A lively vibe welcomes guests into the restaurant; warm brick defines walls and archways and a slender patio offers al fresco dining amid lush greenery.

“Justin and I designed the interior,” says Hatgidimitriou. “It was a collaboration of years of travel and taking photos all over the world.”

A shared communal meal unfolded, starting with a cast iron skillet of saganaki, a traditional dish found on every Greek table featuring pan fried Kefalograviera cheese, flambeed with brandy and served with lemon and pita points.

Next, the outstanding kataifi shrimp, deep fried in a batter made of kataifi dough used in baklava, gives the crustacean a textured, crunchy crust. Roasted red pepper hummus and a harissa aioli finished the crave-worthy dish.

The Giorti (feast) menu showcased proteins from the land and sea. We happily devoured a 30-day dry-aged Kansas City strip locally sourced from Halpern’s—the steak was perfectly grilled and uniquely enhanced with a light, fresh tasting Yianni: a sauce of lemon, garlic, parsley, capers and olive oil.

We also enjoyed a succulent whole snapper sourced from the Carolinas. Both dishes were presented on a wood cutting board accompanied by a palate refreshing Prasina salata of romaine, feta, lemon and olive oil. Hunt sources vegetables and greens locally as much as possible.

We chose two sides: A roasted wild mushroom dish flavored with balsamic vinegar that really shined with great texture and flavor. And we loved the spanakorizo—a creamy spinach risotto made with orzo and three Greek cheeses: graviera, kasseri and kefolottyri.

We, of course, sampled the famous Greek pastry, baklava. The light and flaky layers of crisp   

kataifi were perfectly spiced and sweetened with honey.

At the suggestion of Willmeth, we finished dinner with a sip of Mastiha, a liqueur with a pleasantly grassy profile that’s known for its digestive properties. The proprietary drink is made from a plant that grows only in the volcanic soil of the Greek island of Chios.

Basking in its warm glow, the experience couldn’t have ended on a better note.

In Greek culture, ‘ya mas’ means a celebration of life. That sentiment translates through the cuisine, service, and sense of family at Taverna Philosophia.

Ya mas! ϒ

Taverna Philosophia

976 Houston Northcutt Blvd, Ste O, Mount Pleasant

843-984-5005

www.philosophiamtpleasant.com/taverna

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